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The Fearful Dog: Easing Its Fright
Myth: Fearful Dogs will eventually outgrow their problem.
Max is a Great Dane-Newfoundland mixed breed that was found as a stray. To the embarrassment of his owners, he is afraid of people. He shivers, shakes, and sometimes urinates when approached by a stranger. He is also afraid of bicycles and has knocked over pedestrians while running away from menacing tricycles. Max's owners cannot understand why he behaves this way. They are concerned not only because the dog is very distressed but also because his fears are getting worse. They are worried about how Max will react if someone else takes care of him. They also have heard about "fear biters" and do not want Max to become one.
Sign of Fear
There are numerous behaviors that indicate a dog is afraid. The dog may lower its head, flatten its ears against its head, tuck its tail between its legs, and try to avoid whatever is causing the fear. The dog may also shiver, tremble, salivate, or pant. Sometimes a fearful dog will direct signals of submission toward another person or dog. Submissive signals are similar to those of fear but may also include "grinning," which involves horizontally retracting the lips; avoidance of eye contact; squatting and urinating; or lying on a side and lifting a rear leg. An extremely frightened animal may freeze and remain immobile. Some frightened dogs, if cornered, may attack.
Methods of Treatment
Fears are among the most successfully treated behavior problems. The procedures, however, must be carried out correctly, or they could actually make the problem worse. Owners of fearful dogs that show aggression should not attempt to treat the dog by themselves. They should seek help from a qualified professional. The treatment of fears, phobias, and anxieties is based on identifying and manipulating the fear-producing stimulus so that the animal eventually perceives it without experiencing fear. Only by experiencing the fearful stimulus in a nonanxious state can the animal learn or "realize" that the stimulus is not actually harmful. This can be accomplished by (1) flooding, (2) desensitization and/or counterconditioning, or (3) medication.
 Flooding
In this technique, the dog is exposed continuously to the specific fear-eliciting stimulus (for Max, both people and bicycles are fear eliciting) and kept in the situation until it shows little or no signs of fear. Only by experiencing the situation without being afraid can the dog learn that the situation is not harmful. Flooding sessions could last many hours; however, they can be shortened by exposing the dog to a situation that is only mildly frightening and keeping it there until it is completely relaxed.
A relaxed dog will hold its head, ears, and tail in a normal posture. The dog will not pant, shake, or salivate. Neither will the dog look "worried." When the dog no longer appears frightened, it can be fed, petted or talked to in a friendly way. These pleasant activities can further reduce the dog's fear of the situation.
Removing the dog from the situation before its fear subsides may make the problem worse. The dog might learn that its fearful behavior causes the stimulus to go away and, thus, behavior is reinforced. Because flooding sessions can take a long time, they are usually not the treatment of choice for extreme fears. For example, Max could require 8 continuous hours in the midst of moving tricycles and bicycles before he relaxes.
During flooding sessions, dogs should be kept on a leash so they cannot run away. If the dog is afraid of people, the owner should warn others not to reach for the dog. A frightened dog may bite. Desensitization and Counterconditioning
Desensitization involves gradually exposing the dog to the fearful stimulus -- initially in a less intense form or for a shorter duration. The intent is to avoid evoking any fear or anxiety. Counterconditioning involves pairing relaxed behaviors with delicious food tidbits, petting, praise, or play. Gradually, without evoking any fear or anxiety, the modified or abbreviated stimulus is intensified (i.e., either brought closer, moved in a different way, or presented for a longer duration). Eventually, the dog becomes conditioned to experience pleasant emotions with the stimulus that previously elicited fear. Although this procedure seems simple, implementation can be quite difficult and often requires the assistance of an individual skilled in animal behavior modification.
As a general rule, if the dog does inadvertently become mildly frightened during a treatment session, the owner can try petting or verbally soothing the dog to lessen the fear. If petting or soothing does not quickly reduce the fear, the activities should be stopped. Otherwise, the dog might interpret them as a reward for its fearful behavior. The owner can either wait until the dog eventually relaxes (do nothing but preventing the dog from leaving) or reduce the intensity of the fear-eliciting stimulus. When the dog does relax, the owner can pet, praise or feed the dog. At that time, the dog learns that a relaxed and happy attitude is rewarded. The Treatment Process: Step by Step
Fears are among the most successfully treated behavior problems. The procedures, however, must be carried out correctly, or they could actually make the problem worse. Owners of fearful dogs that show aggression should not attempt to treat the dog by themselves. They should seek help from a qualified professional. The treatment of fears, phobias, and anxieties is based on identifying and manipulating the fear-producing stimulus so that the animal eventually perceives it without experiencing fear. Only by experiencing the fearful stimulus in a nonanxious state can the animal learn or "realize" that the stimulus is not actually harmful. This can be accomplished by (1) flooding, (2) desensitization and/or counterconditioning, or (3) medication.
The first step in treatment is to carefully identify all aspects of the situation that frighten the dog. Most dogs are not equally afraid of all people, nor are they always afraid of a particular individual. The proximity of the person as well as what he or she is doing influences the intensity of the dog's fear. Even the environment can affect the degree of fear. For example, most dogs are more afraid if they are cornered or placed in a location where they were previously badly frightened. Once the features of a frightening situation are identified, they should be ranked on a continuum - from the most highly feared situation to the lowest.
Max, for example, is most afraid of tall, heavy men in uniform, especially if they reach as though they are going to pet him. Max is less afraid of shorter men, even less afraid of young boys, only slightly afraid of women, and unafraid of young girls. He is also not as afraid of people he knows. When outdoors, he is not afraid of men if they are 50 feet away but becomes progressively more afraid the closer they get. Although Max is not afraid of a person standing still at 50 feet away, if the individual raises his or her arm, Max begins to show fear by backing up and lowering his tail.
Before being exposed to the stimuli on the continuum, the dog should be taught to assume a relaxed posture, such as sit/stay for a delicious morsel of food. Ordinary dog biscuits are not as effective as mouth-watering treats, such as deboned chicken, pieces of cheese, or thin slices of hot dog. It is also helpful to conduct practice sessions when the dog is slightly hungry (e.g., before its daily meal). The tidbits should be small because they may be used continuously as fear-eliciting stimuli are slowly moved closer or intensified. When teaching the animal to sit/stay, owners should not use stern words, jerk on the leash, or punish the dog. The goal is to condition the dog to associate pleasant things with sitting and staying.
The next step is to expose the dog to the lowest-ranking stimulus (unlikely to cause fear), then gradually increase its intensity. Initially, when exposed to the stimulus, the dog should be sitting and in a happy, relaxed mood while being rewarded with tidbits, praise, and petting. In our example, Max's treatment begins with sitting and staying while a girl appears 50 feet away, because Max is not afraid of girls, or even men, at that distance. Max gets a reward. The girl then takes a step closer. If Max still appears happy, Max gets another reward. Although delicious food usually is more rewarding, verbal praise can be presented more quickly; therefore, as soon as the girl stops taking a step forward, the owner should immediately say "good dog" and then give Max a tidbit. Gradually, the girl comes closer and closer until she can stand before a relaxed, happy Max. Max's ears should be up with his head high and, ideally, his tail wagging. This may take several sessions. Desensitization/counterconditioning sessions should end without the dog ever showing any signs of restlessness or anxiety.
The next step is to change the stimulus or situation slightly. The girl again begins approaching from 50 feet away, but now she moves her arms. Perhaps she reaches in Max's direction or pretends to pet him from this distance. She may speak to the dog or bend over. She engages in behaviors that are known to elicit fear when performed close to the dog; however, because she is performing them far away, she is not likely to evoke fear. If the dog appears relaxed and happy, he gets rewards. Gradually, the girl comes closer and closer. Not until Max can happily tolerate the girl reaching for him nearby should potentially more frightening stimuli (i.e., a woman, a man, a tall man, and, finally, a man in uniform) be incorporated into the program.
Again, precautions should be taken. The dog should be on a leash and the stimuli introduced so slowly that the dog is not frightened; a frightened dog might become aggressive. If the dog has ever shown any signs of aggression (snarling, snapping, biting, or even barking threateningly at people), these sessions should not be tried without professional help.
It is important to keep in mind that at the first sign of anxiety, the stimulus should not be intensified. The dog should be given the opportunity to relax. When the dog again appears unafraid, give it a reward. If the dog does not relax within a few minutes, withdraw the stimulus or reduce its intensity. The dog should not be immediately rewarded. Wait a minute or so. If the dog relaxes, it may be praised, petted or fed. Then, if possible, introduce the stimulus again - but not at the level that elicited the fearful reaction. If the dog remains calm, it should be rewarded. Ideally, the session should end while the dog is doing well.
Max's fear of bicycles could be treated using the same process. First, the stimuli that elicit the fear (bicycles, tricycles, sounds, distance, speed, etc.) are identified. Then, a bicycle is moved slowly past Max at a distance of 100 feet. Max is rewarded for sitting and staying as the bicycle moves past him. Gradually, the bicycle moves closer and closer. As long as Max sits there and "looks happy," he receives tidbits, praise and petting. If he begins showing signs of anxiety, the bicycle is stopped and Max is not rewarded until he relaxes. Eventually, the bicycle is moved faster and faster, as well as closer and closer, until the bicycle is zipping by at a distance of 2 to 3 feet. Precautions
Other than part of a specific behavior modification program, owners of dogs that are afraid of people should always instruct visitors or passersby not to approach the dog. Strangers should be told not to talk to or directly look at the dog. They should not extend their hands toward the dog -- even to let the dog sniff the back of their hand. Of utmost importance, they should be told not to reach to pet the dog. The dog might perceive this motion as threatening. Play it safe.
Fearful dogs should not be punished (hit, severely scolded, yelled at, threatened, or corrected with a leash) in an attempt to eliminate their fears. Dogs that are afraid of their owners should not be punished for other misbehaviors, either. Most misbehaviors can be prevented or handled without an owner resorting to punishment.
Fearful dogs can be treated successfully if the treatments are done correctly. Sometimes owners, in an attempt to handle the problem themselves, inadvertently reward the dog for the wrong behavior, fail to reward the dog for the right behavior soon enough, or do not modify the fearful stimuli appropriately.
The help of a qualified professional may be necessary. The dog's veterinarian may know someone skilled in animal behavior and modification techniques. Back to top
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